From Madam CJ Walker’s steel hot combs to lye and no-lye relaxers most commonly used today, black women nationwide find it a beauty necessity to straighten their hair.
One may achieve the straightened “bangin’ wrap” look wanted, but what are the consequences of using chemical relaxers?
“I first permed my hair when I got to Southern for the convenience, but my hair started to become damaged,” said Akia Ramsay, a senior economics major from Boston. “Some black men tend to respond to the stereotype associated with straight hair-that it is better-but I wear my hair natural because it is me. I feel like a weight has been lifted from my shoulders.”
These hair relaxing chemicals, sodium, lithium or guanidine hydroxide, each has a pH ranging from 10-14, which is highly basic. They break the disulfide bonds of the hair strands to straighten tightly coiled hair, which are not reformed after the straightening process. The hair strands swell and become porous. What is left is weak and brittle, and requires regular deep conditioning.
About eighty percent of black American women use relaxers. “It is true that the use of relaxers may cause hair damage- that’s why it is important to deep-condition and care for your hair properly after the relaxer,” said Krishonne LaFrance, a sophomore from New Orleans majoring in business management. “But permed hair reflects the images seen on television and in everyday life.”
Your hair is not the only thing that may become damaged. Chemicals that contact the scalp may seep into the bloodstream and cause damage unbeknownst to consumers. A research team from the Boston University School of Public Health in Massachusetts is currently investigating the health hazards associated with exposure to chemicals found in relaxers. Additionally, the American Public Health Association has documented health effects based on previous toxicological studies including burns, irritation to mucus membranes, dermatitis, coughing and airway irritation.
With all the negative hype about hair chemicals, natural hairstyles are becoming increasingly popular. Besides pressing hair with hot combs, the alternatives include twists, locks, and small afros.
Some go natural for health reasons, and others make fashion statements.
“My hair is symbolic,” said Julien Baker, a mathematics major who sports lengthy locks. Baker is a senior student from New Orleans. “They represent freedom and are a way to express independence.”
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The bone straight truth about relaxers
October 24, 2003
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