The history and culture of black hair dates back to the 1400s, when the first documented slave trade occurred. Slaves wore elaborate hairstyles, but were soon forced to shave and cut off their hair, stripping them of the last piece of their identity as a way to control them.
As Africans became more enslaved, they had to assimilate to European culture, causing their grooming traditions to disappear as well. The texture of their hair became compared to “wool,” and soon the intricate styles became harder to maintain. Because of this, slaves during the 1800s turned to using bacon grease, butter, and kerosene as a means of conditioning, cleaning, and managing their hair on a day to day basis. It was during this time that aesthetics began to determine the worth of slaves; those with lighter skin, and straight hair had higher prices at auctions than those with dark skin and kinky textured hair. This is where the idea of colorism began to present itself.
The term ‘good hair’ was then introduced and began to be a requirement to exist in environments like churches, schools, and business networks. “Good hair” refers to the prestige that comes with having looser textured hair, as black women who had their hair styled like white women were looked upon as more attractive than those who did not. In 1845, the first hot comb was created by the French, as a method of straightening kinky hair.
By the 1900s, Madam CJ Walker came onto the scene developing a line of hair care products catered to black hair. Walker revolutionized the press-and-curl style and became the first American female self-made millionaire.
Braids, a go-to style that can be worn in many different ways, also has a history of its own. A long-standing cultural tradition, braids were used to identify what tribe a person came from in African cultures. They were also an indication of one’s marital status, wealth, the power one might have, and their religion. But as more and more people, including women, were captured into slavery, traffickers cut their hair off as a way of stripping their culture.
As women endured the struggles of slavery, braids became less intricate and more practical and functional. Many African women would braid rice or seeds into their hair as they traveled through the Middle Passage, on their way to enslavement, or even in their kids hair while being separated so they could have food to eat. Braids became functional as women needed their hairstyles to last for a week while working. Braids also served as maps for those escaping to freedom and a way for slaves to communicate without their masters knowing.
Black hair has a deep and rich history with roots that go back to West Africa, reflecting the extremely unique black culture. The evolution of black hair and culture continues to grow today as many women are embracing the variety of styles from box braids to twists and dreadlocks that are weaving their way into being celebrated throughout the African American community.